Editorial Review of
Searsucker
Inside Searsucker, a modern and industrial edge is softened by an overflow of comfy couches, Oriental rugs, textured animal patterns, and understated graphics that simply read “EAT” in black and white. There are no secrets at Searsucker – the open kitchen invites patrons to be a part of the culinary experience from start to finish while smelling every flavor along the way.
The straight-forward menu of new American classic cuisine is divided into seven sections: Bites, Smalls, Greens, Ocean, Ranch, Farm and And. Start with such simple and tasty Bites as the Pretzel with ham and honey; Fennel Ribs; and Duck Fat Garlic Fries. The Small items may be petite in portion but are certainly strong in flavor. I recommend trying the Beef Tartar and Beet Carpaccio or “Carb Free” Crab Cake. The menu boasts ten varieties of Greens to choose from for lighter fare, including Smoked Trout with grapefruit, radish and avocado.
Chef Malarkey has a strong affinity for seafood and is known for adding a vibrant flair to our favorite items from the sea … the San Diego sea to be exact. On the Ocean portion of the menu is Local Shark, BBQ’d and served with onions and bleu cheese; Local Seabass with tomato and eggplant hash; Local Harpooned Swordfish with drunken cherries and almonds; and Local Baja Scallops with foie gras and figs. If you want to remain on land, check out the Ranch portion of the menu that boasts such stand-out dishes as Loin Filet Mignon with lobster butter; Hanger with porcini and truffles; Cheek with goat cheese dumplings; and Ribeye Tomahawk with cognac and horseradish. Don’t forget to visit the Farm and taste the Pork Butt with grilled peach and bacon butter or “Benny and the Birds” with apricot gastrique.