First Glance at Dish at Universal in Hillcrest

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The corner of Vermont and University in Hillcrest is home to, quite literally, a crossroads of culture.

Following the recent launch of EnDev's latest club Universal is the unveiling of Dish, a warm restaurant that embraces the artificial in a natural setting and serves a fresh take on locally grown urban comfort food. For some unexplainable reason, the bold juxtaposition of synthetic and unscathed, flashy and subdued balances itself out - and works, beautifully.

Unlike the Restaurant at Stingaree which, in the minds of many, sits in the shadow of the nightclub despite the high caliber cuisine, Dish is making a solid effort to define its own identity. From the solo grand opening to the separate-but-equal layout, Dish is determined to draw an audience all its own; for dinner or weekend brunch - before the club, or not.

Don't be fooled by the straight-forward boxy exterior, the tan simplicity on the outside makes for great contrast to the warm overflow of raw, green hues and psychedelic texture within. Through The Garden entryway, guests view shimmering gold booths under firm red and tan umbrellas facing dangling bird cage garden décor over the outside bar. To dine at Dish guests take a right at the fire pit and enter through a single glass door.

Dish is, by far, the riskiest design we've seen from Davis Ink in San Diego. The bold color scheme and varied texture ensemble is striking and, to some, may be a bit too loud. But from the first glance, every shade and dimension met my eye with grace and purpose, and I accepted Dish for what it is - a restaurant made for fun.

Shiny bamboo floors carry guests from the simple hostess stand through the three indoor dining sections at Dish. Four-top tables near the front window overlook the outdoor patio seating that parallels Universal foot traffic. In dim light courtesy of multiple petite chandeliers overhead, this section is great for people watching, and the semi-private locale can accommodate larger parties. Deeper into Dish, the left side of the restaurant offers shimmering gold booth seating under the steady watch of peacock prints. The brilliant peacock blend of purples, greens, and blues is fresh and inviting, and the subtle touch of the exotic complements the predominately natural palate.

The right wall commands attention with arrayed twists of golden drift wood against a lime green backdrop. A third dining option is the varied two and four-top tables with wicker-backed chairs positioned beside the wall adorned with drift. Further back Dish features a dining section for private parties, guarded by a sparkling clear chandelier. A large and circular dark wooden table seats about ten guests and is built for an interactive dining experience perfect for big groups. This private table is bordered by the Dish wine collection which is stored in a tall wood and mirrored wrap-around closet unit.

The restaurant's dynamic texture is enhanced by padded snakeskin walls and a multidimensional ceiling. A psychedelic mix of lime green and brilliant gold adds an artificial twist to the snakeskin print, and the padded, bubbly texture brings the design to life. Above, beside, below - the peacock and driftwood accents with emphatic lime green backing always reconnect with the varied snakeskin glow. High ceilings throughout Dish are broken down into varying layers by solid dark wood overhangs embedded with shining lights. The ceiling divide elevates the texture and leaves the eyes wanting more. You feel the spirit of the forest in the restaurant's hues and texture. But the artificial clashes with the natural, leaving guests in a space of transition and excitement. And now, dinner is served.

Dish's Chef Antonio Friscia, of EnDev's Restaurant at Stingaree fame, exclusively shops the San Diego markets for high-quality, locally-grown produce to perfect his menu of urban comfort food. The Dish menu changes daily to accommodate the ebb and flow of the local market. While ingredients and presentations will be in constant flux, the level of culinary expertise will remain the same.

The dinner menu is divided into two main sections: Tease and Get Some. Start with the ménage a trios of calamari, shrimp, prawns, and sherry chili aoli, or the mac'n'cheese fonduta with rustichella macaroni al torchio, duroc bacon, kirsch, and gruyere to tease your dinner date. But, make sure to follow up and get some with the organic king salmon served with lentils du puy and a salad of grapefruit and watercress, or the whole grain mustard marinated couloutte steak - brandt beef couloutte with rogue river bloomsdale spinach, fingerling steak fries, and peppercorn jus.

Other entrée options include the crispy braised pork belly, lobster parpadelle, tall grass chuck burger, and pan roasted corvina bass. After you get some, indulge in a plate of milk and warm cookies or chocolate brioche bread pudding for dessert. Tease menu items range from $9-12, Get Some entrees range from $11-20 and desserts are $7 and $8, respectively.

Dish is also open for weekend brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 8:30am to 2:30pm. This is sure to be the next hotspot for Hillcrest brunch thanks to the featured build your own bloddies, mimosas, and bellinis. For those that taste and sip, say good morning with buttermilk biscuits and gravy, eggs benedict, quiche, French toast, and traditional egg combos. Brunch items range from $7-13, and a la carte sides range from $2-5.

The warm design and inviting spirit of Dish encourages guests to embrace the tension of natural and new and just have fun. I say, those who criticize lime green and gold padded snakeskin walls take themselves, and life, entirely too seriously. EnDev and Davis Ink. have, again, tested the limits and expanded the standards of restaurant and entertainment design in San Diego. Unlike the Restaurant at Stingaree, Dish will surely not be swept into the shadow of Universal.

It's hard to deny a metaphor in the Dish design. The extrasensory experience creates a contrast between the tangible and surreal. Dish sits guests within nature while simultaneously questioning and testing what it means to be natural. Just through The Garden sits Universal, San Diego's first upscale club to acknowledge the gay and straight community as a communal clientele. While Dish is its own venue, it also serves as a symbolic precursor to the Technicolor stereotype thrashing club sitting just a few doors down.

Now, discover the Insider scoop on Universal in Hillcrest - the sister club taking a stand for modern synergy in the San Diego nightlife scene. Read more on why here.