La Jolla Vigilucci's Seafood, Steak and Chop House

The newest addition to the Vigilucci Restaurant Group's stable of seven restaurants scattered around North County is the unmistakably upscale Vigilucci's Seafood, Steak, and Chop House.

Sitting at the end of ultra-chic Prospect Street in La Jolla, Vigilucci's now joins two other staple downtown restaurants - Forever Fondue and the Hard Rock Café.

Start with muted beige walls and matching tablecloths; raised booths give select diners a panoramic view of the coastal goings-on. A giant square bar reminiscent of Cheers itself sits in the middle of the room, above which are positioned two large screen, flat-paneled televisions that, on the night of my visit, were broadcasting a March Madness game. Outside, patio diners were warmed by half a dozen space heaters.

I arrived before my 6:30pm reservation, but was seated immediately. The dining room filled up an hour later as the palm trees on Prospect swayed softly against a sunset that was turning a deep indigo. The sensation that I was only blocks from the Pacific Ocean was palpable.

Relaxing, I began my meal with both the Polpette di Granchio ($14.75), crab cakes served on arugula and aurora sauce, and the Scallops allo Zafferano ($16), seared diver scallops served with baby spinach and bean sprouts, drizzled with creamy saffron sauce.

Both appetizers arrived quickly and were attractively presented on rectangular, bone-white dishes. The three scallop medallions were melt-in-your-mouth tender, saucy, and lightly browned on top. A spritz of lemon and a dip in the saffron sauce sent them out of this world. The crab cakes, while sharply textured on top and tender inside, offered an understated flavor that missed a certain zest.

Choosing an entrée from the extensive selection of seafood, pasta, and La Carne (as listed) proved challenging, as each selection had merit. I settled on the Prime Petit Filet ($33), which was served with fresh vegetables and choice of baked potato, French fries, fettuccine alfredo, or spaghetti e olio. In a steakhouse with an Italian flair, fettuccine seemed the obvious choice.

The main course arrived on a large plate, dramatically showcasing the 8 oz steak. Flavorful and satisfying, the filet was tender inside and possessed a slightly smoky flavor. The fettuccine offered a sauce with a deep, unusual flavor - hardly the common sauce one might expect.

Although I could have opted for gelato, Tiramisu, Cannoli or several other mouth-watering desserts, I chose the Crème Brulee, which came in a generous portion and was presented with a bright red cherry and deep green mint leaf. The custard was light, silky, and deliciously rich and, overall, the Crème Brulee was a sweet and satisfying closure to my meal, complemented nicely by a full-bodied and flavorful cup of coffee. Without question, I left Vigilucci's smiling and fulfilled.

While the Vigilucci's environment clearly is upscale, the dress was surprisingly casual and included shorts and tees (mostly by the bar), biker jackets, warm-up suits, and one lone man in slacks and a tie. And unless you don't mind parking in a residential area blocks away, valet is a must and is actually taken care of in a lot attached to Roppongi.

The new Vigilucci's Seafood, Steak, and Chop House should appeal to high-end diners who love a beach atmosphere and a good steak, but also crave a touch of pasta. Making a comfortable home in the second story venue in downtown La Jolla once known as Cendio, the latest locale of the Vigilucci fine dining enterprise seems to be here to stay.