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Red Marlin For Elegant Spring Dining With Casual Flair

Published : 04/01/2008 by Casey Lo
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Jutting into the edges of Mission Bay lies the Hyatt Regency's newest mariner inspired dining establishment, Red Marlin.


Named for the sleek and playful Marlin fish, the restaurant balances elegance with a casual flair, and boasts one of the most extraordinary panoramic views of the bay. Crystal clear glass walls encircle the spacious dining room, barely an arm's length away from the congregation of pristine white yachts tip-toeing lightly over the water.


A tasteful combination of classic white and navy complement the sprawl of gleaming wooden tables scattered across the plush carpet. The outdoor patio sits directly atop the water as a separate dining area for those who want to sink in the ocean air.


Despite affiliation with the Hyatt Mission Bay, the clientele at the Red Marlin does not singularly consist of tourists staying at the hotel, but is a mixture of mature professionals as well as a younger crowd of local entrepreneurs, simply there to enjoy the expansive sight of the bay. The restaurant itself is both comfortable and roomy, exuding an atmosphere of exclusivity without being too formal. The length of the brightly lit bar, in particular, is a popular attraction after hours, and hosts hundreds of wine and cocktail variations.




Chef Danny Banister keeps the menu light and fresh with his version of Californian cuisine laced with Asian ingredients and spices. The simplicity of quietly unadorned titles such as an appetizer of Sauteed Mussels belies the complexity of flavoring Banister puts into the half pail of gigantic mussels swimming in a broth of amber curry. The Thai inspired concoction, steeped in lemongrass, shallots, garlic, ginger, white wine, coconut milk, and lime leaves, is whipped into a surprisingly light sauce that is not too thick or creamy but tastes deeply of the myriad of spices.


A believer in "wholesome good food," Banister isn't interested in rewriting the culinary rules of traditional seafood cuisine, but still keeps an innovative edge to his style accented by a variety of regional influences. Scallops in general are often served with flava beans, but the Smoked Salt Scallops dish at the Red Marlin is served on a bed of grass green edamame mash.


The edamame, pureed to baby food consistency, tastes faintly of soy, and is an appropriately light pairing to the much sharper, saltier scallops. Despite the sting of salt however, the four slabs of marble white scallops are barely dusted with chili and salt, relying on natural freshness alone to supply the flavoring.


The most frequently requested dish, the Ahi Tuna, is perhaps the perfect embodiment of Banister's dedication to fresh, wholesome food. A thick steak of medium rare tuna, seared and then chilled, sits atop a nest of shredded greens. The Asian slaw is tossed with both creamy spicy aioli and clear tangy ponzu dressings, to create an equilibrium of Western technique fused with Asian ingredients.


Almost nothing on the menu is fried or even oily. Instead, healthy vegetarian sides such as Sauteed Mushrooms, Fresh Spinach, or Olive Oil Crushed Potatoes are offered in an effort to keep the meal consistently light. But don't confuse fit and healthy for unsatisfying. Portions are generous and more filling than meet the eye. Even a dish of four scallops, which doesn't sound like much, is actually more than enough to sate any appetite.


Surrounded by the enviably fair San Diego weather, the Red Marlin offers a clean view of the ocean skyline any season of the year. Bask in golden sunlight during the day or watch the fiery sunset dissolve below the water at night, while dining on the city's freshest seafood, bursting with authentic bay-side flavor.




Skip dessert and opt for a famed signature cocktail at SWIM, the indoor/outdoor poolside lounge complete with a sandy beach lounge.


For all the Insider scoop on SWIM, read the details here.

 

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