San Diego Oceanaire Seafood Room Redefines Restaurant Chains

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Having been born some seventy years after the Titanic sunk, there is no way I could have physically experienced the opulence and grandeur of the infamously luxurious ocean liner.

However, after watching reruns of the 1997 movie an unhealthy number of times, visions of chandeliers, waiters with coat tailed suits, and of course, smooth jazz music instinctively flit through my mind at the mention of vast and elegant cruise vessels.

Within the Downtown San Diego Oceanaire Seafood Room, the atmosphere is awash with images reminiscent of a gorgeous dining hall aboard the luxury liner, and is positively dripping with the sleek sophistication of the 1930s.

The thematic presence of Oceanaire is part officious mariner and part island calm. Fluorescent blue lights skim the ceilings, casting a playful and relaxed mood over the more dignified browns coloring the polished mahogany floor and shiny dark leather cushions at the booths. The lamps hanging heavily overhead are enormous domes of frosted glass secured by thick metal bands, and create a soft, white backlight below the vivid blue.

At the entrance, whip like stalks of slender ferns potted in giant urns of navy and gold china politely adorn the top of the wooden dividers, separating the bar area from the dining room, and curving around some of the larger booths to provide an air of privacy in the center. Quirky details prevent Oceanaire from becoming too austere. Funny quotes such as "Save the products of the land - eat more fish they feed themselves," are spelled out in silver letters, next to some gawky-looking bright plastic fish hanging on the walls, while dark rugs of blue, green, and pink cozy up the wooden floors.

Oceanaire is a seafood restaurant chain that stretches across fifteen locations all over the country from the shores of the Pacific in San Diego to Baltimore on the East Coast. Although it seems that the proliferation of Oceanaires would detract from the restaurant's promise of exclusivity in fresh produce, rest assured that each and every Oceanaire is unique and serves different dishes according to the vision of the executive chef. In San Diego for example, Oceanaire is headed by former Bravo Top Chef contestant, Brian Malarkey, whose menu showcases much of his own sumptuous creations, as well as the chain's most beloved signature dishes.

Even on weekdays, both the restaurant and bar are packed. The lively hum of conversation occasionally interspersed with outbursts of raucous laughter and the chink of wineglasses fill the room. The scene is not exactly a hangout for a young demographic, but a venue for mature working professionals interested in taking a break from the stressful weekdays to indulge in extremely high quality wine and seafood. Portions are large and often ordered to be split, and customers eat with uniform gusto and enthusiasm. In the words of Chef Malarkey, "Oceanaire is big on sharing. It's a wonderful family experience...just without the kids."

The ever-changing menu is the dynamic element of Oceanaire that sets the restaurant apart from Gaslamp neighbors. Selections rotate daily to accommodate fresh seafood that is brought in every morning. The chalkboard at the bar and associated checkmarks next to the list of fish on the menu indicate the best catches of the day. Seafood is not limited to choices on the Pacific, despite proximity to the San Diego coast, but rather fresh fish are shipped from all over the world.

For instance, on February 20th, the New Zealand Swordfish, Fijan Opah, and Maine Monkfish were all caught and made available at the San Diego Oceanaire. Like the variety of ingredients that are shipped from the ports of the world, Chef Malarkey's style of preparation also combines influences from across the globe to create a fusion of flavors, such as the Mano de Leon Hand Harvested Scallops which is made with Japanese red miso and shiitake mushrooms. In luck to try another of Chef Malarkey's personal recipes, I ordered the "Drunken" Grilled New Zealand Swordfish and some oysters and the crab cake to start.

The Maryland Blue Crab Cake is one of Oceanaire's most popular appetizers. Despite the pedestrian ring of the name, the crab cake at Oceanaire is not the usual fried patty of shredded crab meat and flour, but a fresh mound of real chunky crab meat prepared with only the lightest sprinkling of parsley and some mayonnaise. More exotic appetizers specific to the San Diego branch are available for those adventurous enough to try Tempura Frog Legs, or El Diablo Squid.

My swordfish arrived as a white fish steak gently cooked to a medium rare, the thin, tender outer layer was flaky to the touch and encased the sashimi pink flesh within. Smoky almond halves and port drunken cherries encrusted the entire fish and toppled over to surround the plate. The tart dried cherries were sweet and sour, contrasting with the buttery, flavorful almonds, and the delicate taste of rosemary infused swordfish.

Salads and side dishes are also on the menu to complement family style dining. Yukon gold mashers or horseradish mashers in particular make excellent pairings with the seafood specialties, which are often served without additional sides. The salads are generously portioned and laden with toppings. Strawberry Fields Forever is a favorite; the Mesclun salad is a French mix of arugula, baby spinach, and kale, tossed in champagne vinaigrette, and accompanied by creamy goat cheese and fresh strawberries.

Following the rich fare of oysters and swordfish, the recommended end to the night would be to enjoy a cup of hot coffee and slowly digest the meal. But if a final sweet treat simply cannot be resisted, try the Baked Alaska - a ball of chocolate ice cream coated with marshmallow meringue and drenched in rum and live flames to create a sticky hardened sugar shell over the dessert.

Seafood lovers will find their palates satisfied and stomachs full to the brim on the freshest oysters, crabs, and fish of the day from all around the world. Allow the seafaring atmosphere to wash away the anxieties of the week and prepare to discover the gems of seafood, from dining on the finest pink snapper caught in waters of New Zealand, or even tasting shark from the islands of Catalina at the San Diego Oceanaire Seafood Room.

Photography by Chantelle