Currant Brasserie Unleashes the Spirit of Absinthe in San Diego

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If you frequent San Diego's downtown district, you well know San Diego nightlife is fueled by one simple substance: alcohol.

But don't get too comfortable with your Grey Goose and soda - the nocturnal norm is about to change - as San Diego's thrill-seeking Currant Brasserie is now serving up something green and newly legalized at its bar.

Currant Brasserie, a first-class restaurant that first opened its doors in September of 2007 within The Sofia Hotel, is challenging the palates of Gaslamp-goers with its eclectic cuisine. Now this ultra-hip American Bistro is taking its appeal to another level by adding the freshly legalized French luxury elixir, Absinthe to its intoxicating menu.

Says the bistro's young and amiable General Manager Sanjay Parekh, "Currant's aim overall is to redefine what the traditional bistro is, to be a place that is upscale and sophisticated, as well as approachable and comfortable."

Currant achieves this aim both with its menu and its style, as thick grey velvet seats and inviting throw pillows create an atmosphere of laid-back luxury, perfect for enjoying its European offerings.

In early twentieth-century bohemian France, Absinthe, the 161-proof green liquor is said to have inspired euphoria in its drinkers and was the liquor of choice among many of the era's artists and writers. Absinthe's hallucinatory effects are legendary, being nicknamed "La Fee Vert" (The Green Fairy) because of the signature green tint and licorice flavor. Its popularity spread like wildfire all throughout Europe and America, but was banned at the height of Prohibition in the early 20th century. Now, eight years into the 21st century, absinthe has arrived in San Diego after the U.S. government legalized the spirit this past summer, giving exclusive licenses to two distributors.

So how did Currant get the good fortune to be the first bar in Southern California to sell this ex-contraband? Parekh attributes the opportunity to good industry relations and his bar manager's creative vision. Charles Mendiola, who lends 10 years of experience to polish Currant's image is "always trying to find new products and incorporate new, unique ideas," according to Parekh. By maintaining a good working relationship with a major dessert distributor allowed to carry the liquor, Currant was offered the chance to serve Absinthe.

As one of the first restaurants to host the Green Fairy, Currant cleverly showcases their exclusive cocktails with their new event, "Absinthe-minded" - an experience reminiscent of the old world upgraded with a fresh twist of modernity. The ironically named French brand Lucid Absinthe is served in shots, cocktails, or by traditional bottle service.

The key to preparing Absinthe traditionally is to make it with cold, filtered water. "The water is only supposed to be introduced to the Absinthe drop by drop," explains Mendiola as he sets up a small urn with a spigot, which holds water over a tumbler of Absinthe. A slatted, silver spoon balances over the tumbler, holding a nugget of sugar that then dissolves into the absinthe as the water slowly drips over it.

Mendiola is crafting the cocktail like a work of art with a garnish of currant and a touch of black currant syrup. "It's called VanGogh's cocktail," he says with a grin, the title referring to one of Absinthe's most famous enthusiasts. The shot is similar, mixing caramelized sugar dissolved in pure Absinthe.

"You can drink it as slowly or quickly as you want, but most people like to drink it fast." Mendiola laughs. Speaking of the Curant's general vibe when Mendiola's Absinthe cocktails are being passed around, Parekh says, "It's a very unique nightlife experience that creates a free-flowing environment in the restaurant."

Currant is enthusiastically toying with food pairings for the potent drink, ideas including fondue, cheese plates and fruits. But while a typical bistro is limited to one menu, Currant has four. "One advantage we have at Currant is that our chef [Jonathan Pfleuger] is so dynamic," says Mendiola. Under Pfleuger's direction, Currant's menu is constantly changing, using organic materials and providing guests with each season's freshest selections.

Currant Brasserie and The Sofia Hotel are interdependent but their exquisite styles complement each other, making them a powerhouse duo in the Gaslamp Quarter. Because of its art deco style and Neo Gothic architecture, The Sofia Hotel was recently recognized as a member of the National Trust Historic Hotels of America in 2007.

"If you want it, we can do it. That's the reputation we want," says Mendiola. Above all, the Sofia and Currant staffs are eager for you to come down and experience the new plush poison for yourself. With matching style and high end appeal, Currant at The Sofia Hotel is the freshest addition to San Diego's nightlife and restaurant scenes.

Photos by: Ryan Tharp